Dakshinkali Temple

My Nepal guide book describes Dakshinkali Temple as, “...a spooky place of blood sacrifices and wrathful goddesses.” The description sounded intriguing and I decided I had make the trip out there. I hired a cab for the day and this morning I headed off for a self-guided tour of the Kathmandu Valley. My first stop was Dakshinkali.

'Spooky' is the right word for Dakshinkali. I don't want to delve into a whole lot of details, but in a nutshell Dakshinkali is where Hindus in the Kathmandu Valley come to make animal sacrifices. Just the remoteness of the place made it feel spooky. My driver headed several miles South of Kathmandu, then drove through narrow, hilly roadways for another half-hour. Finally we arrived. I walked down a concrete pathway leading to the temple, passing kiosks selling ritual flower arrangements, strings of beads, and a few roosters. The temple itself is a tiny, unassuming pavilion built in a crevass between two hills. Two giant, iron bells hang near the entrance and brass statues of lions line the white marble floor. A small stream trickles by on one side of Dakshinkali, which worshippers use for religious purposes. I watched from only a few feet away as Hindu pilgrims kneeled, roosters in hand, before a shrine in the center of the temple. Other worshippers lit candles near the shrine or lined up to be annointed by a holy man. The place was incredible for people-watching and I couldn't snap pictures fast enough. Just before I left, one man led a small black goat into the temple. Like I said, I won't go into the details... On the way back from Dakshinkali my driver made a quick stop at a nearby Buddhist temple named Sekh Narayan, then we headed back towards Kathmandu.

Newari architecture is everywhere in Nepal, but the greatest concentration of it is in Durbar Square in Patan, a town near Kathmandu. Durbar Square in Patan is similar to Durbar Square in Kathmandu, with giant wooden temples featuring multi-tiered roofs. The square in Patan has more spectacular architecture, in my opinion, and it also has a few stone temples mixed in that were built by Indians centuries ago. I spent an hour or so wandering around Patan, enjoying wooden carvings lining the sides of the buildings, giant stone lions spread throughout the square, and a few golden statues of former rulers of Patan. Whenever I wander through ruins or ancient cities I wonder what each civilization must have been like when it was at it's peak. Patan wasn't massive, but it must have been pretty incredible. The architecture is considered to be so typical of Nepal now, but I wonder if it was completely radical when it was built. The final temple of the day was one on the East end of the valley called Changu Narayan. I wanted to go to Changu Narayan because it's described in my guide book as one of the most spectacular temples in the Kathmandu Valley, and it's also a UNESCO world heritage site. I'm glad I went to Changu Narayan, but I think it didn't make nearly the impact that it would have if I hadn't gone to Dakshinkali this morning. Changu Narayan is well-known for having lots of intricate stone sculptures and wood cavings. Dakshinkali is just a wild place, and it's completely shocking. Stone and wooden carvings are interesting, but it would take something pretty out of the ordinary for a carving to have any shock value. After getting back tonight I booked a three-day tour of Nepal's Royal Chitwan National Park that leaves the day after I get back from the Everest Trek. I read over a couple brochures for accommodations near the park, and a few of the things I read apparently got a little lost in translation.

According to the brocure for the Island Jungle Resort, their hotel is, “...for the traveller who wishes to experience jungle adventure only during the day time but who would rather prefer to spend the nights away from the birds, the bees, and the monkey.”

Another quote, also from the Island Jungle Resort: “During your stay we offer delectable meals that are sure enough to make you forget your mother's cooking.”

My favorite was from a place called Hotel Hermitage: “As the name of the resort suggests, the tranquil and independent life of hermits can be enjoyed in each of the rooms.”

I haven't yet decided which resort I'll stay at, but I'm leaning towards the Island Jungle. The cooking there had better be pretty good if it's going to make me forget my mom's. I'll save the Hermitage for another time.