Yak Steak

I apologize in advance for offending any vegetarians who might read this...

It feels good not to have to care so much about the weather. When Min and I left Namche Bazaar this morning the skies were cloudy and rainy, but I hardly even noticed. During the past two weeks I've had plenty of days of good weather and more incredible views than I hoped I'd have when I started. One rainy day at the end is no big deal, and in fact, I kind of even like it because it's a rainy day that I didn't have to deal with earlier when it really mattered.

As we followed the trail back to Lukla we descended into green, tree-covered valleys and passed through tiny hillside villages. The Buddhist mani stones and prayer wheels that are less common higher in the Himalayas reappeared. After crossing the Dudh Kosi several more times, then hiking up the edge of the canyon, then down, then up again more times than I want to remember, we finally arrived in Lukla.
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't hungry, filthy, thirsty, and tired when I finally reached the end of the trek today. My first item of business at Lukla's three-dollar-a-night Khumbu Resort was to correct all four problems. I bought a liter of water and downed nearly all of it in one chug. Hot showers are a commodity in the Himalayas and I inquired about the services that are offered at the Khumbu; two-hundred Nepali rupees was a bit steep for a gas-fueled shower in a dank, moldy stall, but I was willing to pay it. Then there was the issue of my still-empty stomach...

I originally hoped I'd be given a yak to carry my bag for two weeks, but since Pemba the porter filled in for the shaggy beast, I figured I had to experience the animal in some other way. To commemorate the successful ascent to the Everest Base Camp, as well as the successful descent and completion of the trek, I ordered a large yak steak and savored every morsel of it.
For dessert I wanted some all-American apple pie, but since it's the off-season and no apple pie is currently available, I settled for a local concoction instead. The Khumbu Resort chef (who may also be the owner, manager, and janitor for all I know) cut a Mars candy bar in two and fried each half inside a rolled up piece of chapatti. I was skeptical at first, but it was actually pretty tasty. I might even prefer that to a slice of apple pie.

All things considered, the Base Camp trek has been an incredible success. When I booked the trek I knew that summer time is the monsoon season in Nepal, and I had read that in June most people see nothing but fog and the trail ahead of them. I booked the thing anyway and hoped I'd get lucky. I had no idea how lucky I'd really get. During the past two weeks there have been two days of perfect weather, and they happened to fall on exactly the days that were best for me. I originally told myself that I'd be satisfied just to get a glimpse of Everest through the clouds, but I had crystal clear views of Everest as well as views of several more of the most famous peaks in the Himalayas. I've met a lot of interesting people, and Min, my guide and Pemba the porter have been good company as well. It feels good to be so satisfied with the way everything has worked out. I'm excited to get back to Kathmandu tomorrow and to keep on rolling with the epic trip.